Monday, April 18, 2011

Thoughts as I'm doing homework


This quarter has been by far the most challenging and interesting class-wise.

1st quarter was about getting back the comfort with Chinese that disappeared after one school year of 5-hours a week of Chinese classes and a summer in England. I consolidated core vocabulary in TOCC and started to figure out how Chinese essays, news, and colloquial speech worked. I also had time to adjust to Taipei (how to get places, buying daily necessities), developed good habits (exercising, eating, laundry), and had lots and lots of opportunities to explore, from travelling and hiking to cultural events and television.

2nd quarter I had about as much fun as you can have with Chinese classes and still learn. Exploring was a little limited by a longer class schedule and rainy cold weather, but I still made a number of excursions, especially now that I had a group of friends to go on trips with. As opposed to just random explorations and constant children's television, I also started to engage with the language more regularly outside of class: Cat and I found language exchange partners, we started watching 2 different TV series, and I started following the news in Chinese.

This quarter is the first time I am rid of the awful (but necessary) concept of the "core" class (which you are supposed to spend most of your time on), and this means I get to take way more interesting and diverse classes and feel like the language is actually helping me understand things rather than just "learning" it with no end in sight.

Here are my current classes: Taiwanese short stories, television news, documentaries, and independent reader (a collection of essays gathered from Chinese language sources on various topics, from education to politics and society).

The first difference is that all of these things have been actually published or broadcast rather than being specially prepared or modified language materials, so they are mostly language that actual people use.

The second is that they are challenging. Like, I have lots of work I should be doing now.

The third is that they are content heavy. As in, real things and events are actually discussed in them. I feel like I'm engaging with actually significant issues. Part of this is that the content is more recent (within the last few decades for short stories, within the last few years for documentaries, within the last few days for news). But even reading outdated essays about the L.A. race riots still feels in a way like discussing relevant and pressing issues, because they are things people can and do have real opinions on with implications that matter today.

Also good for me in that dealing with concrete issues is something I tend to avoid. Theoretical facets of issues come easily to me and facts are just so much messier and frustrating. Chinese is now helping me engage with real, current issues. For example, my news teacher is a former reporter for 聯合報道 and she cares that I know things, like about ECFA and NATO and specific Chinese activists. Things which, otherwise, my brain would filter out in favor of gleaning and retaining purely general information which would later help me bs my way through situations requiring that knowledge.

From the beginning, Chinese is presented as a way to immerse yourself in another culture. And it is, in that intro language books are full of words for night market snacks, essays about Chinese history, or comparisons of Chinese versus American education systems. Besides providing a kind of shallow framework for understanding what you, as an American, are doing in a different culture, it also gives you the tools to have some "oh!" moments. ("Oh, so that's why diarrhea is something you totally don't talk about in English but is a favorite topic in Chinese" "Oh, so that's why the waitress won't let me order a cold drink in the winter" "Oh, so that's why I feel infantilized every time i come to Taiwan!")

But examining authentic Chinese literature, documentaries, essays, and news is such a difference in kind, and just at the time that I was kind of reaching a crisis of meaning in my language study career. And doing so as the main class activity rather than just what I try to squeeze in between the gym and homework is a much better feeling.

To give some concrete examples: The beginning of fall was election season, which meant having loud trucks with banners and megaphones blasting unintelligible and crackly slogans. This seemed super stupid to me. If the point was to win votes, this was the worst way to go about it, since it quite clearly was annoying to everyone (rich neighborhoods banned these processions from entering - they did so anyway). Then late first quarter I started reading Taste of Apples, a short story collection which gives you a really good feel for rural Taiwan. One is about a town crier, whose job it is to spread news by walking around town beating his gong. The disappearance of his job signals modernity's unstoppable encroachment on traditional village life. So after reading this story I felt slightly less hostile to the megaphone trucks, and a little more understanding of their existence.

In documentary class, besides watching our assigned documentary, we're also supposed to find outside materials to reference and provide background to the content of the documentaries. The first week we unraveled the difference between 外省人 and 本省人. There's really no good way to deal with these terms in English, and they are overly politicized terms anyway. But essentially, in order to understand Taiwan, you need to understand that it's population is mainly composed of aboriginal peoples, KMT descendants (waishengren) who came over after the civil war with the Chinese Communist Party, and "Taiwanese" (benshengren) who originally came over from the mainland so were there after the aboriginal peoples but way before the waishengren influx.

This is something I've always understood fuzzily but never discussed or learned about concretely. It also opened up so many more avenues of discussion with Taiwanese people here, and especially of understanding the KMT, like hearing my teacher's story of her political coming of age in college, when she realized her strongly KMT upbringing hadn't given her all the facts. Or like hearing about how my language exchange partners studied Chinese history, not Taiwanese history, in high school, and had tests on the location of Chinese railroads, because the whole idea was always to attack and take back China from the communists. Why study Taiwan when it was just a temporary base for taking back the homeland?

Or right now, doing my work for news class. Instead of using the prepared "TV news" materials that everyone uses for that class, my teacher wants me to not just be learning the language skills but also to be dealing with actual news. So all of our clips concern the current week's news, and right now I am working on the State Department's 2010 Human Rights Report and how it is being received in Taiwanese and Chinese media, as well as the Chinese government's response (the 2010 report on America's human rights record).

It's been way interesting to see the commentary in Chinese newspapers, both the language that is used and the factual stretches that need to be made. Like this People's Daily article which tells us that America has been "kidnapped" by human rights. The article makes "discrimination again homosexuals" one of Clinton's three talking points, rather than oppression of minority groups (including homosexuals, but also China's equally or even more obvious oppression of racial minorities like Uighurs or Tibetans). For the obvious reason that in China this is less political sensitive than talking about racial minorities - no one there is worried that a united community of homosexuals will want to secede, and public consciousness about sexuality-related freedoms is non-existent.

Despite understanding every word in the article, at first it was hard to understand some of the points being made, because the worldview is extremely alien from my own: one in which a mainstream and convincing argument can be made that as each country deals with their own laws, peoples, society, culture, and religions in their own way, this implies it is the way it should be -- ok, this is just the culturally relativist argument so far...and to provide support for this claim based on the fact that in some African countries you can be imprisoned for being gay. Back off, West, and stop "encouraging homosexuals to resist the government" (quoted text is directly from the article. added words are in the spirit of the article).

Without Chinese, I would have a vague understanding that for all its failings, America's human rights problems are not comparable to, say, North Korea's. Hearing the Chinese accusations in the news, I would have some understanding of why I saw a few points worth considering and mostly a twisted and untrue position. A liberal arts education helped me get there, but there's always the nagging doubt that you are too culturally centric to really know. Chinese has, first of all, given me the impetus to gain more knowledge with which to evaluate this. But it's also helping me engage with arguments made in other cultural frameworks on the level of that culture and language.

At first language study is a totally formal and negative project, where all values begin to seem relative and you can't really convince your teacher that it is okay to drink cold things or be 100% confident that your culturally informed opinions on cold drinks are correct. Now it's also a positive project, where I don't have to fall back on English to find something that rings true, in other words, the truth or close to it, like that in no case do I think a government should imprison a person for being homosexual. And specifically in this case I can tell you that while some things are the West being a big bully towards developing nations and/or China, what parts are not and what is wrong with the Chinese response, from whatever culture you look at things.

In other words, now that language learning is giving me a chance to also learn more things about the world, I have more chances to authentically evaluate and form my own opinions and understand my values, which should be an aim of education whether abroad or not. As many things as I am finding are "relative", as much as things get more complicated the more deeply you understand them, I'm also tentatively building meaning that I hope I can honestly say is not a pure product of either English or Chinese and their respective cultures.

At first, language study abroad really tears down a lot of who you are, in that it takes away both your ability to express who you are and actually who you are in relation to what's around you. At the intro level of language learning, it provides in their place only some artificial phrases about the foods and activities and kind of education you like ("American!" "creative!" "independent!") and boy do you ever start to feel the nihilism weighing down on you. It's not until now that I feel like I am, more often than not, engaging with real ideas and issues in Chinese, and that doing so in Chinese makes this a significantly more intellectually honest project than it would otherwise be.

I hate reading my own writing and my blog entries are particularly poorly written (both an issue of time and priorities and what is discussed above, the tearing down of a language and cultural framework that I was used to using to communicate). Otherwise, it would be interesting to read back and see what things were like back then, because I really feel like how I'm learning now is so different and feels so much more constructive. The first five "levels" of Chinese were absolutely necessary, fun and new at the time, and did much to teach me about cultural differences -- but now I am actually reading real real real things!!! And I can see, actually, how this is fitting into everything I've been studying and want to learn and do, not just on the theoretical level of some future achievements but actually what I am already doing right now.

In class last week I argued that a feeling of alienation isn't just from encountering something Other, it also only arises when you don't understand yourself. The alienation that I've felt from living here is slowly, but concretely and authentically, being resolved through language learning. Most basically by making another culture more accessible, but also by engaging and affirming something outside of relativism and nihilism, values that I identify with and think are worth believing in.

Friday, April 15, 2011

Chaos

Cat and I have a language exchange partner named Catherine (resulting in lots of name confusion) who is really great. She is also taking African drum lessons and invited me to go see a outdoor performance her teacher was giving at Bitan.

When she invited us we joked around about whether she would be performing as well. Which of course she wouldn't be, she said, since she had just started lessons. Wouldn't that be funny, her being in the performance, haha.

HAH well. When I got there, after spending like an hour walking around the area with her and totally randomly running into my uncle at some international festival thing that was being held in the area (the performance started an hour late- artist types) - we were invited to sit in a circle with the other drummers. Then given drums. I explained I did not even know how to drum. 'That's ok, 亂打!' I was told.

亂 is word that appears all over the place, it means chaos and disorder and usually has fairly negative connotations. Like, when people explain why the Chinese political system fits the Chinese people, it's because the system is harmonious (valued in Chinese society) and not 亂 (not so much) like in democratic states. In this case it meant more like, drum "as you please", which is what we did. And people gathered to listen to us:



This does not really give you an idea of the crowd that gathered, since as more and more people gathered to listen, it would have been strange for me to take my camera out.

Then some other group of performers (that no one in the drum group knew, but you know, all musicians, with instruments from countries beginning with A, belong to the same community of music) with didgeridoos (took several days of thinking to come up with the name of this instrument - huge Australian aboriginal pipe things below) came to join:

[wow look at the onion-shaped sentence above! I am forgetting how to think in English..]


People got really into it, especially the kids:


Not every audience member was a big fan of spontaneous drumming. This one couldn't keep away, but kept his hands over his ears most of the time:


Anyway in addition to being fun and slightly embarrassing, joining the drummers was definitely an encounter with a totally different segment of the population than I am used to. Except for some notably Taiwanese characteristics, I could have been in CU (maybe at some kind of library sponsored cultural event or downtown). Taipei has lots of different people, although my favorite are the ones most unique to Taiwan (nothing compares to Taiwanese old people!), after a while you also find that there are some familiar categories (with a twist): punk rokkers, hipsters, club rats, fashionistas - and now, colorfully dressed internationally oriented musicians. Add a sunny afternoon at the park, a little bit of 亂, and stir for an extremely memorable experience.

I've also been to a few more international and/or Western culture type things in Taipei, mostly the influence of classmates (Tiffany!). In some ways things can't really compare to America, but it has its advantages and is also another way to understand Taiwanese society. Like the Monet exhibit was super small, but really nice and not too crowded and at the same time, 1 let me observe Taiwanese people appreciating Monet, 2 gave me a chance to see other exhibits on Taiwanese artists in the museum. Tickets at main venues like the National Concert Hall are also reasonably priced and convenient to get (yea 7-eleven!).

Seeking out things I'm more familiar with in Taipei is probably also just part of the transplant rejection/acceptance process as my body and mind continue to express doubts about all the Chinese they are supposed to deal with. Our baseball game (monkeys vs. cows) got rained out today or that would've been another thing to help me deal with not having been to America since September! But, let's be clear, baseball is also a huge part of Taiwanese culture. And as to Western concerts and art exhibitions, more and more understanding Taiwanese culture also means understanding Taiwanese culture as it responds and relates to other cultures, the 'West', and international trends. [Point of shame: finally caved and got a curry TV dinner thing at 7-eleven this week, they heated it up for me and it was actually not bad. though not something I plan to do again]

Well, anyway, ICLP's annual Matzu trip is coming up in a few days. Matzu is the sea goddess and we'll be seeing the super 熱鬧 (and probably insanely chaotic) procession for her birthday, among other things. Can't get much more authentic Taiwanese than that, so at the very least will probably erase the 7-curry from my list of sins. And be an awesomely fun time.

Yours in chaos,
K

Thursday, April 7, 2011

Green Island

This weekend was Children's Day and Tomb Sweeping Day. Not having children to celebrate or tombs to sweep, for me this meant VACATION! Actually I would like to discuss tomb sweeping in an upcoming post, but first an overview of this vacation, which yes came after only a week of school - but it was quite a tough week! My classes are crazy hard, also something for a later post, but I think it will be good for me because I am already learning a lot.

Because it was a national holiday, everyone in Taiwan was going places, either home to offer sacrifices to the ancestors or around to normal vacay places. Green Island is hard to get to in the first place - it is off the East coast of Taiwan, which I have mentioned is extremely remote. Additionally Green Island is 18 km around. It actually as recently as 20 or so years ago was mainly known as the place where Taiwan jailed/tortured it's political prisoners.


Green Island Jail - where Taiwan kept its most dangerous prisoners. Kind of weird because I think it still functions as a jail, though the guard seemed to be used to tourists coming around to take pictures. There is also a huge complex that was used to train prisoners and another location for political prisoners i.e. people the KMT didn't like.

Our journey to and from variously involved the following: waking at 5 am, taking a cab while the cabbie insisted on talking to me in incomprehensible Taiwanese, to arrive at the station and stand in a lengthy line. Expensive high speed rail trip, down the wrong coast but with seats. Wrong (slow) train across to the other coast, sitting on our bags and standing every stop to squeeze more people on. Speeding from train station to harbor since if the boat actually left when it was supposed to (it didn't) we should have already missed it by 15 minutes. Ferry ride from Taitung to the island, the absolute most puke inducing ride I have ever been on, an hour of a chorus of puking on every side as we undulated up and down and side to side. On arrival, given motorcycles that none of us knew how to ride. Sitting 6 people to 4 seats in a tiny car that wound around the curves in the road in the pitch dark. Biking around the hilly island with a local stray dog guiding us (getting into the occasional territory fight with dogs we passed along the way) and almost being pushed over by the wind. Transported around the island on the bed of a truck, but you know finally having enough room to spread out our legs. Back on the pukey ferry. 6 hour ride, standing tickets only, back to Taipei.

The waves were pretty once we were on the island but not so pleasant in a tiny boat


We leisurely biked around the island, past some goats. Then came hills and fierce wind



This enormous bird carcass which we saw on the beach is probably what's left of a bird that tried to make it to Green Island



Our doggy friend guided us around the island. Also a Sika deer bit Andrew



Riding around on the bed of a truck


Lighthouse



Cause Green Island is surrounded by crazy looking rocks

So that was the transportation nightmare. Let me explain why it was all worth it.

1. Friends. 'nuff said


2. Green island - what a weird place! What an experience. Based on what I've seen of Taiwanese sitcoms, there exists a stereotype of dwellers of small islands as particularly uneducated, but also as living simpler and more honest lives, since they are more closed off from "civilization". Well, we definitely encountered some people who seemed to have gone crazy from lack of contact with civilization, but we also experienced some of the pluses of small island life, like quiet and not needing bike locks (where would you take the bike if you stole it?). All in all, the people of green island seemed pretty laid back and nice, helpful if you asked for it but not wanting to get too involved in other people's business. Definitely way different feel than Taipei - one local kept telling us we were in the "Republic of LyuDao" now. Like the whole jail thing?? Green Island now has a whole park dedicated to human rights!! A few of the other special things we found on the island:



The beach - it's a young island so instead of sand the beach is more rocky. I found lots of cool dead coral!



Shijia - my fav fruit



A rock shaped like Guanyin in a cave


3. Food. The shaved ice was definitely the best I've ever had. The seafood was better than Kending's but not amazing. We did have two amazing dinner experiences - one at a lamb stove place, which had absolutely no system in place for assigning tables. You can't reserve seats and we had to stand around for more than half an hour and then fight for the right to one of the gas stoves. Good side of this kind of business model: they stay open until they sell out of food. The other was an outdoor barbeque where we created our own kebabs and other creations with sauce meat and veggies.


Delicious shaved ice in shells!


Outdoor BBQ!!!


These last two were the best, but also the wettest so no pictures, sorry. Here is me getting in touch with the beach:




4. Hot springs - one of the only two natural sea salt-water hot springs in the world. Open all night long (!), the facilities are huge and you can soak with the sound of the surf in the background. Also, the water "makes you beautiful".

5. SCUBA. Drey and Cat are both advanced scuba divers so they introduced us to scuba diving! Green island had a slightly worrying attitude towards safety (old equipment, decompression chamber in a remote part of the island, the Chinese unwillingness to explain anything to you when they can just do it for you) and our instructor needed a smoke between every dive. But as this was our first dive what we did amounted to very little more than a short dip in the water. And it was absolutely amazing!!! The marine life around Green Island is indescribably cool, my mind was absolutely blown. Soft coral, sea urchins, angel fish, unicorn fish, you name it! I definitely want to get back in the ocean sometime soon, though I would for sure want an instructor with a less local attitude to instructing...

(Also Thanh sent me this awesome scuba related story from the Japan disaster - just one more reason to learn to scuba!)

So that was my awesome weekend on Green Island, which was totally different from anywhere else I've ever been here! :) Maybe now you have some idea of why I think of Green Island as both a prison and a paradise, both a place to escape to and to escape from. Another example of what a strange and diverse place Taiwan can be. I feel so lucky to have been able to explore it with friends - there aren't too many trips left before the end of the quarter but I hope the rest are this outstanding!